Vehicle Purchasing Tips & Recall Websites

For any new vehicles, get a Consumer Reports Price analysis, for $14 on the exact model, to find out what the fair price is for it, prior to negotiations with the dealership. Make sure to get pre-approval for the auto loan, prior to negotiations.

Ask three other dealerships for a guaranteed trade-in price if relying upon a trade-in for negotiation. Also, have at least three other dealerships give you a best offer before you purchase any vehicle.

***Check for safety recalls online at repairpal.com and safercar.gov websites. Those recalled parts can sometimes be inspected, repaired, and/or replaced, free of charge by the manufacturer, but needs to done prior to purchasing any vehicle.

Otherwise, the manufacturer may delay or refuse to fix the recall defects. If it's a wiring harness problem, it can cost ten thousand dollars or more of electrical system collateral damage by the time it's discovered, even if the the defective part(s) is/are finally repaired by the manufacturer for free. The collateral damage will be costly to you, because the manufacturers will probably not cover that, unless there's a successful class-action lawsuit.

Hiring a private attorney to go against an automotive manufactor will cost at least $10,000 for the retainer, plus, maybe $20,000 more for legal fees, and, independent, professional mechanics to testify on your behalf. It may be difficult to find mechanics willing and qualified to testify against the manufacturer also.

Don't fall for any supposed "veteran-approved" dealerships, any extra options or be pressured to get extended warranties either. They often like to attract customers who are disabled veterans, especially female minorities, and prey upon them.

For both new and used vehicles, hire an ASE-certified mechanic, familiar and experienced with that specific vehicle's make and model. They should have at least 15 years or more experience in the industry, without job-hopping.

If they've only worked for one year at every single place of employment, then select the mechanic with the most stable employment history. This could cost approximately $90/hour. They should test drive the vehicle also.

After you drive out of the dealership with the vehicle, your mechanic should re-check it for you again, to make sure it wasn't stripped or switched with another, lesser one, potentially a stolen one. This can happen with both new and used vehicles, including, from supposed "veteran-approved" dealerships.

For vehicles at or over 60k miles, the VIN-verified entire brake system needs to be completely inspected, along with being bled. Brake calipers, pads and the brakes themselves need to be inspected.

All VIN-verified, auto insurance claims, especially for floods, auto maintenance and auto body repair information must be gathered on the vehicle. Your mechanic will need to analyze them for any red flags. Missing complete records are a definite red flag.

More than one owner, reported/unreported collisions, unwillingness to match the best price from three other dealerships, BBB complaints, negative internet/YELP reviews, and odometers that don't seem in line with the wear and tear on the vehicle are signs of a corrupt dealership. Walk away and don't buy that vehicle or purchase anything from that dealership. File an online/YELP review and complaint with the BBB.

All fluids, fluid levels and spark plugs have to be correct for that vehicle. Spark plugs should only be brand new, for all used vehicles. Require a complete tune up, with all fluids flushed and/or replaced. The coolant and transmission fluids will all need to be flushed and replaced with the highest-rated fluids.

Never take any dealership's word that they have put oil in it. Open the hood and check yourself, personally. Also, check the engine's VIN again, in case they have switched the vehicle with a lesser one on you, before driving out of the dealership.

The vehicle purchasing process may require checking the engine's VIN four times even. If the vehicle left your sight during the inspection and purchasing process, it could have been switched with a lesser or stolen vehicle. Never be rushed about re-checking the engine's VIN yet another, even fourth time.

The battery level and battery itself needs to be checked by your mechanic. The vehicle will then need to be put onto a lift, steam cleaned, and checked for any leaks. The serpentine or S-belt must also be brand new. Acquire a Carfax report on your own. Don't rely upon what the dealership prints out for you. Check the VIN on the vehicle's engine, and also, with your own report.

At 75k miles, the timing belt and air conditioning belt must be brand new also. All tires should be brand new, all four must also be matching and appropriately inflated to the right tire pressure. For those vehicles, select from Consumer Report's most reliable, used vehicles only. Avoid the vehicles without electronic stability control, antilocking brake systems, and side-curtain airbags.

Don't forget to check all reviews on that vehicle in Consumer Reports. Get a Kelley Blue Book report on it, that your mechanic also will need to analyze. Sometimes the wear and tear is more than the dealership is claiming.

Basic information on electronic stability control:

http://cars.about.com/od/thingsyouneedtoknow/a/ESC.htm

Remember, always be prepared to ask at least 10 specific, detailed questions, privately, with your own BBB-member, highly-qualified, highly-experienced mechanic, prior to any vehicle purchase.